We have compiled
some of the most frequently
asked questions below.
Which payment methods can I use?
We accept Telegraphic Transfer 50% deposit in advance, 50% balance before loading for bulk order.
100% T/T, PayPal, Payoneer for small amount or sample fee is acceptable. Service charge of those parties by payer.
How to order lamps?
Step 1: Provide photos, dimensions and specifications to get a quote from our sales.
Step 2: Submit PO to us, and we will send PI for payment.
Step 3: We will send drawing for approval and proceed production after the approval.
Step 4: We will submit photo or video after complete the production.
Step 5: Proceed the balance payment after approve the completed products.
Step 6: Load the cargo according to client's instruction.
Do you make custom Lamps?
Yes, we do customize lighting fixtures and metal fixtures according to our customer's request.
When should I plan my lighting?
Plan your lighting at the very beginning of your project, ideally during the design or pre-construction phase. It's one of the most common and costly mistakes to leave lighting as an afterthought.
Here’s a breakdown of when to make key lighting decisions, tailored to your project type:
For a New Construction or Major Renovation:
Schematic Design Phase (Very Early):
Discuss lighting concepts with your architect or designer. Think about room purposes, furniture layouts, and mood.
Start looking at fixture styles to establish an aesthetic direction.
Design Development Phase (Before Plans Are Finalized):
This is the most critical window. Your electrician needs a detailed lighting plan to bid accurately and run wires.
Finalize the placement of every switch, outlet, and fixture. This includes:
Recessed light locations (based on ceiling joists).
Pendant drops over islands/tables.
Vanity sconce or ceiling light placement.
Location of all junction boxes.
Decide on switch types (dimmers, 3-ways, smart switches).
Order long-lead-time fixtures (custom or imported pieces can take 8-16 weeks).
Before Drywall Goes Up:
All rough-in electrical must be complete. Wires, boxes, and conduits are installed.
Walk the site with your electrician and designer with plans in hand to verify every location.
After Drywall is Installed & Painted (But Before Final Flooring):
Fixtures are delivered on-site.
Installation of fixtures happens (electrician returns for "trim out").
For a Room-by-Room Remodel (e.g., Kitchen/Bath):
Plan lighting as part of the initial cabinet and layout design.
Coordinate with your contractor: The lighting plan must be set before they close up walls or ceilings.
Example for a Kitchen: Your cabinet layout dictates under-cabinet lighting, island pendants, and recessed light spacing. These decisions must be made for the electrical rough-in.
For a Cosmetic Refresh (No Structural Changes):
Plan when you choose your paint colors and furniture.
Since you're likely using existing wiring, you have more flexibility. However, you should still decide on new fixtures before painting so any old mounting plates or holes can be addressed.
Key Milestones Checklist:
✔️ Before finalizing floor plans.
✔️ Before ordering cabinetry.
✔️ Before the electrical rough-in inspection.
✔️ Before drywall installation.
✔️ Before painting.
Why This Timing is Non-Negotiable:
Walls & Ceilings Get Closed Up: Once drywall is up, moving a switch or adding a light becomes exponentially more difficult and expensive.
It Affects Other Trades: The electrician needs to coordinate with the framer, HVAC (to avoid ductwork), and insulators.
Avoids Change Orders: Last-minute lighting changes are among the most common and costly change orders in construction.
Pro Tip:
Create a lighting schedule spreadsheet. List each room, the fixture name/model, quantity, wattage, finish, and a link. This will be invaluable for you, your designer, and your electrician.
In short: If you're at the stage of thinking "I should start planning my lighting," you are right on time. Start now.
How much should I budget for lighting?
1. By Project Scope (Typical Ranges)
Single Room Refresh (e.g., living room, bedroom):
Budget: $200 - $1,500+
Includes: 1-2 overhead fixtures, 2+ lamps, possibly a floor lamp or sconces.
Example: A ceiling fan ($150), two table lamps ($100 each), and a floor lamp ($200) = ~$550.
Full Home (New Build or Complete Renovation):
Budget: $2,000 - $10,000+ (for fixtures only)
This is for all rooms: kitchen, dining, living, bedrooms, bathrooms, hallways, exterior.
Rule of Thumb: Allocating 2-5% of your total construction/renovation budget to lighting (fixtures + labor) is a common starting point for builders.
Kitchen (Often the most complex):
Budget: $500 - $3,000+
Includes: Overhead/pendant lights ($100-$800 ea), under-cabinet linear LEDs ($30-$150/ft), and potentially recessed cans ($50-$200 ea installed).
2. Breakdown by Fixture Type & Quality Tier
| Fixture Type | Budget/Low-End | Mid-Range | High-End/Designer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Recessed Can Lights (each, installed) | $50 - $100 | $100 - $200 | $200+ |
| Ceiling Fans | $50 - $150 | $150 - $400 | $400 - $1,000+ |
| Pendant Lights | $50 - $150 | $150 - $500 | $500 - $2,000+ |
| Chandeliers | $100 - $300 | $300 - $1,500 | $1,500 - $10,000+ |
| Wall Sconces | $30 - $100 | $100 - $400 | $400+ |
| Bath Vanity Lights | $40 - $150 | $150 - $500 | $500+ |
| Track/Lighting Systems | $100 - $300 (kit) | $300 - $1,000 | $1,000+ |
| Smart Bulbs/Switches | $15 - $50 per device | Adds 20-50% to fixture cost |
3. Hidden & Essential Costs (Don't Forget These!)
Installation & Electrical Work: This is often 50-100% of the fixture cost.
Simple swap of an existing fixture: $75 - $200 per fixture.
New wiring, switches, or circuits: $150 - $500+ per location.
Installing multiple recessed lights: $200 - $500 per room.
Dimmers & Switches: $20 - $60 per switch + installation.
Smart Home Integration: Hubs, smart switches/dimmers add significant cost.
Bulbs: LED bulbs are an upfront cost ($5-$30 each) but save long-term.
Permits & Inspection: May be required for major electrical work.
4. How to Create Your Own Budget
Walk through each room and decide on the layers of light:
Ambient (main overhead light)
Task (under-cabinet, reading lamp)
Accent (sconces, picture lights)
Count the fixtures needed for each room.
Assign a provisional cost to each fixture using the tier table above.
Add 20-30% contingency for unexpected finds or changes.
Get quotes for installation from a licensed electrician, especially for new construction or major rewiring.
Practical Tips to Save Money
Mix high and low: Spend on a statement piece (dining chandelier) and save on utilitarian fixtures (closet lights, recessed cans).
Focus on LED: Higher upfront cost for bulbs, but they last for years and use very little energy.
Standardize bulbs: Use the same bulb type (e.g., A19, BR30) across many fixtures to buy in bulk.
DIY with caution: Only swap existing fixtures if you're comfortable. New wiring should be left to professionals.
Bottom Line:
For a mid-range full home (fixtures only), a realistic starting budget is $3,000 - $6,000. For a single room makeover, start at $500 - $1,500.
The best next step is to browse sites like Wayfair, Lowe's, Home Depot, or local lighting showrooms to get a feel for the styles you like and their price points. This will make your budget much more specific and accurate.
How to find the right light source?
1. Understand the Three Pillars of Light Quality
A. Color Temperature (Measured in Kelvins - K)
This is how "warm" or "cool" the white light appears.
2700K - 3000K: Warm White. Cozy, inviting, relaxing. Ideal for living rooms, bedrooms, and dining rooms. Resembles incandescent or sunset light.
3500K - 4000K: Neutral White. Clean, balanced, and energetic. Perfect for kitchens, home offices, bathrooms, and garages. Good for task lighting without being too sterile.
5000K - 6500K: Cool White/Daylight. Crisp, bright, and alert. Best for workshops, laundry rooms, and detailed task lighting. Can feel harsh in living spaces.
Simple Rule: Lower Kelvins (warm) for relaxation, Higher Kelvins (cool) for focus and task.
B. Brightness (Measured in Lumens, not Watts)
Forget Watts (which measure energy use). Think Lumens (which measure light output).
Guide:
Desk or Reading Lamp: 400-800 lumens
Bedside Lamp: 200-500 lumens
Dining Room Pendant: 1,200-2,500 lumens (total for the fixture)
Kitchen Recessed Light: 500-800 lumens each
Living Room Ambient Light: 1,500-3,000 lumens (total from all sources)
C. Color Rendering Index (CRI)
How accurately a light source reveals the true colors of objects compared to natural sunlight. This is crucial for art, makeup, and fabric colors.
Sunlight = CRI of 100.
Look for LEDs with a CRI of 90+ for excellent color fidelity. Don't settle for less than 80 for general use.
2. Match the Light Source to the Fixture & Purpose
For Ambient/General Lighting:
Use A-shape bulbs (standard bulb shape) or recessed downlights with a wide beam angle (40°+).
Choose a color temperature that suits the room's mood (see above).
Opt for dimmable bulbs for flexibility.
For Task Lighting:
Use directional lights (like in a desk lamp or under-cabinet strip).
Choose higher lumens and a neutral to cool color temperature (3500K-4000K) to reduce eye strain.
Ensure high CRI (90+) for accuracy (e.g., reading, cooking, crafting).
For Accent Lighting:
Use MR16, PAR20, or PAR30 bulbs with a narrow beam angle (15°-25°) to create pools of light and highlight art or architecture.
Warm white (2700K) is often most flattering.
3. Choose the Right Bulb Technology: LED is Almost Always the Answer
LED (Light Emitting Diode): The modern standard. They are energy-efficient, long-lasting (15,000-25,000 hours), cool to the touch, and available in all color temperatures, CRI levels, and dimmable options. Always choose a reputable brand (like Philips, Cree, Sylvania) for better color consistency and performance.
Quick Decision Flowchart:
What is the ROOM/FUNCTION?
Bedroom/Living Room (Relaxation) → 2700K-3000K, dimmable, medium lumens.
Kitchen/Office/Bathroom (Task) → 3500K-4000K, high CRI (90+), higher lumens.
Garage/Workshop (Detail) → 5000K, very high lumens.
What is the FIXTURE TYPE?
Open/Exposed Bulb (Pendant, Sconce) → Choose a bulb with a nice filament or shape (like an Edison LED or decorative globe).
Enclosed Fixture → Ensure the bulb is rated for "enclosed fixtures" to prevent overheating.
Recessed Can → Choose an LED retrofit kit (like BR30 or PAR38) or an integrated "wafer" light for a sleek look.
Do you need SPECIAL FEATURES?
Dimmability: Must-use dimmable bulbs with a compatible dimmer switch.
Smart Features: Consider smart bulbs (like Hue, Lifx) for color changing, scheduling, and voice control. These are for special effects and automation, not necessarily your primary light source.
Pro-Tips & Pitfalls to Avoid:
Layer Your Light: No single light source is perfect. Combine ambient (general), task, and accent lighting.
Consistency is Key: Use the same color temperature within a single "view" or open-plan area to avoid a disjointed feel.
The Dimmer is Your Best Friend: Installing dimmer switches gives you ultimate control over brightness and mood.
Avoid "The Blue Aisle": Buying bulbs in a big-box store under harsh fluorescent lights makes it impossible to judge color temperature. Read the Kelvin (K) number on the box.
Final Checklist for Your Bulb Purchase:
Lumens for sufficient brightness.
Kelvin (K) for the right color warmth.
CRI 90+ for true colors (especially in kitchens/baths).
Dimmable (if your switch is a dimmer).
Correct base size (e.g., E26 standard, GU10 for track).
Enclosed Fixture Rated if needed.
Start by analyzing one key room—like the kitchen for tasks or the living room for ambiance—and use these principles. It will quickly become second nature.
Can you provide logistics service?
Yes, we can help our customer for logistics service.




